CAT BEHAVIOUR PROBLEMS
Have you ever thought to yourself, "I wish my cat would stop doing *fill in the blank* "? If you have, you're in the right section! Below is a list of common cat behaviours and what they might look like; please note that your cat may not fit neatly into any of these categories, or they might fit into ALL of them, and that's okay!
All of our training is done through positive reinforcement. We are also holistic, which means we consider the WHOLE CAT and their HUMAN; we assess your pet's overall health, diet, genetics, learning environments, current skillset, their mental and physical needs, sleep quality, reinforcement history, and their handler's skills. We also prioritize the mental well-being of your pet and YOU.
We always conduct individual assessments and alter our training plans so that they are the most effective for you, your cat, and the situation. For that reason, you must call or email us to book a consultation (ALWAYS required before any advice can be provided).
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Scratching Things
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Sharpening their nails on furniture or carpets
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Using your leg as a scratching post
Excessive Vocalization
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Crying at night
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Excessive meowing or howling (the cat version)
Voiding Issues
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Not using the litterbox
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Marking furniture or other inappropriate items
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Peeing in sink or shower
Separation Anxiety
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Excessive meowing or crying
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Not leaving you alone when you come home
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Self-mutilation
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Voiding
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Destroying things (e.g., scratching furniture)
Doesn't Listen
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Ignores you
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Looks at you but does nothing (e.g., you say "off" and they don't move)
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Hisses, swats or "complains" when you ask them to do something
Destructive Behaviours
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Chewing items like cords, metal, cardboard, or plastic
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Shredding inappropriate items (e.g., the couch)
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Self-mutilation
Self-Mutilation
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Excessively licking, biting or chewing themselves
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Scratching themselves
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Ripping out their own fur
Fear
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Hissing or any signs of aggression
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Puffed tail or piloerection
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Salivation
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Hiding
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Destructive behaviours
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Not sitting still (always on the move or slinking around)
Being TOO Curious
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Putting paw in your food
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Jumping on the counter when you're there doing something
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Knocking glasses off counters
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Trying to run outside when they are an indoor cat
Constant Attention Seeking
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Chewing cords or other inappropriate items
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Vocalizing
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Being destructive
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Poking or pawing at you
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Rubbing against you but never stop until you pet them
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Biting or clawing
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Using leg as scratching post
Aggression
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Hissing, growling, meowing
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Biting or nipping
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Scratching, swatting, or batting or kicking
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Baring teeth
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Piloerection or dilated pupils
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Typical "Halloween cat" pose
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Guarding people, places, toys or food
Other Issues
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​Stealing food off your plate
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Won't go in carrier/crate
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Cat wasn't socialized at all or was poorly socialized
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Fighting with other animals
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Can't groom them (e.g., brush, or clip nails)
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Many, many, more...
CAT TRAINING
A lot of people believe that cats are untrainable, but this is untrue. You can definitely train your cat to exhibit many useful behaviours. Cat training is a great way to bond with your pet and increase vocal control of their behaviour (you no longer have to physically manipulate your cat, which often leads to bites and scratches). It also allows you to condition your cat to take direction from you through cues, teamwork, and respect. Plus, if we want to be honest, it's always nice to show off some cool tricks your CAT can do (people rarely see cats do tricks or behave on cue, so when they do, it's quite impressive)!
Below are some sample behaviours we can help you train. Just know that there are so many behaviours not included that we can train. If you don't see the behaviour you want to train on the list, feel free to call or email us with an inquiry.
Sit
Sit is a fundamental cue that is used to train many other behaviours. It involves training your cat to stay seated in their location until released. This can be useful for vet exams and in many other situations.
Wait (or Stay)
"Stay" (your cat stays where they are) can prevent your cat from getting injured (e.g., there's broken glass on the floor or something you don't want your cat to eat or touch). "Wait" (cat waits for you to prepare something) is useful when you feed your cat so that they don't try to eat the food while you're pouring it.
Bed (or your Spot)
This cue instructs your cat to go to their bed or a designated area. It can be used while you're cooking so that you cat does not jump on the counter or try to take food while you eat. It can also prevent your cat from bolting outside when you open doors.
Come
This cue can be used to call your cat for their meal or playtime. It can also help you find your cat when they seem to have disappeared.
In Your Carrier
Are you always fighting with your cat to get them in their carrier? If so, this is a good cue to train. It helps you avoid the struggle, plus, it's good in emergency situations where you need to leave the house immediately.
Use Scratching Post
Training your cat to use their scratching post can save lots of money and prevent frustration (no more shredded furniture, carpets, or valuables).
FELINE AGGRESSION
Even though cats are small, they can be very dangerous. Owning a cat that attacks can be a very stressful experience. You don't want to re-home your cat, but you also don't want your family or friends to get hurt. If you are struggling with a cat who exhibits aggressive behaviour, please contact us. Our trainer, Sam, specializes in aggressive cases and would love to help you and your cat.
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Because of the wide range and variability of aggressive behaviours, a consultation is important. If we are going to help your cat, we need to analyze why the behaviour is occurring so that we can create a unique and effective training plan suited to your family and cat. To book a consultation, visit our contact page and talk to our trainer.
SAFE INTRODUCTIONS
Getting a new pet is always exciting. You're probably hoping to see your two pets cuddle or play together, but the truth is, this doesn't always happen. Just like people, animals' personalities can clash. That being said, there are a few things that we can do to create an environment that will make friendship more likely (and no, it's not just putting the two animals in a room and letting them sort it out - this usually ends poorly).
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Before letting your pets meet for the first time, it is important to contact a behaviour consultant to ensure the introduction is gradual and as errorless as possible (we want your pets to make good first impressions). Although we can't guarantee your animals will be best friends, we can guide them in that direction.
PRICING
Consultations are typically 1 hour long and are always free (they cost you nothing!). We come to your house/apartment. The purpose of the consultation is for us to collect more detailed information about you and your pet(s). It also gives you a chance to ask us questions and see if we're right for you and your pet. Be prepared to answer as many questions as you can about your pet's behaviour; part of helping your pet is answering the 5 basic questions (Who? What? Where? When? And why?). If you don't know the answer to something, don't worry! This is a non-judgemental zone. Taking notes about your pet's behaviour or taking videos of it prior to the consultation can be helpful. NOTE: It is important not to instigate the problem behaviour on purpose just for the sake of taking a video (we don't want to intentionally cause discomfort or allow the pet to practice undesirable behaviour).
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First Training Session: The first training session is 1 - 3 hours long, and is $150.00 + HST. This session goes over a lot of training foundations. Appointments are typically at your house. If not, they are held at an agreed upon location (e.g., a public park). During this session, the trainer will demonstrate training exercises for you to practice with your pet.
Subsequent Sessions: Each training session after the first session is $55.00 +HST for 30 minutes (sometimes longer depending on how long we need to go over the next training steps). You will NEVER pay more than $55.00 +HST, regardless of how long this session is. There is no obligation to book a certain amount of training sessions. You book the sessions as you need.​
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Exposure Sessions: These sessions are typically used for reactive dogs. They are shorter sessions, ~15-30 mins long, that work on desensitization/counterconditioning. These sessions are booked more frequently (e.g., multiple times a week), so they are cheaper. They are $20 + HST per session.
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If you have any questions before or after training sessions, phone calls/texts addressing these are free. You will have free access to a client portal that allows us to communicate between sessions. We always want to provide clear instructions, so if there is something that you need more clarification on, we will gladly take your call free of charge. We would also be happy to answer any questions you have regarding our services or training methods!